We arrived into Lhasa Airport and fortunately all our paperwork was in order and we were met and taken to our hotel. The vehicle had two comfortable armchair seats and Sue said "it won't be like this when we leave Lhasa - we'll be bumping around in the back of a jeep". We had a free day in the city to acclimatize to the 3650 metre elevation so we had a short walk towards downtown but only got as far as a bench with a great view of the Potala Palace. In the evening we met our guide, Lak, and arranged a time to meet next morning.
The following day, Paul's birthday, we were picked up at 9 am and, to Sue's surprise, it was the same comfortable vehicle and driver that we would have for the rest of the trip. Our first stop was the Potala Palace, the former winter home of the Dalai Lama. Walking towards the Potala, Lak asked our age and Paul said "71 today". Sue was feeling the effect of the elevation and thought she might rest in the sun whilst Paul and Lak visited the Potala. Unfortunately it was a one-way route and when Lak said we can only climb up to the 12th floor, Sue's heart sank. These days the Potala is a virtual museum with only the top floors, once the living quarters of the Dalai Lama, being inhabited by several monks. We walked up via several steep staircases with a throng of devout Tibetans until we emerged on the 12th floor.
When we exited the Potala, hearing music, we stopped and watched a group of traditional dancers. Lak advised that this was occurring as tomorrow, May Day, is the beginning of a five day public holiday.
Our next stop was Jokhang Temple, one of the most sacred sites in Tibet located in downtown Lhasa and surrounded on four sides by restaurants and shops selling all manner of Buddhist paraphernalia, Barkhor Street.
After lunch, we walked around Barkhor Street before heading back to the hotel to rest. Lak asked what time we would be eating later and said she would bring a birthday cake, which she duly did along with gifts.
Our final day in Lhasa saw us visiting Drepung Monastery in the morning, the largest of all monasteries in Tibet with plenty of steps to climb! Lak treated Sue like an old lady, helping her up and down the steps despite fervent protestations.
After lunch we visited Sera Monastery, one of the great three Gelug university monasteries of Tibet (more steps!). Unusually, visitors are allowed to observe the afternoon philosophical debates between pairs of monks which entail questions and answers accompanied by gesticulating arms, clapping hands and stamping feet of the questioner. The theatrical performance was a fascinating sight, despite not understanding what was being debated.
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I have been looking forward to reading about your time in Tibet and you didn’t disappoint! Looks incredible. Glad someone finally crowned you Paul! What a place to spend your birthday. Lots of love x x x
What a fascinating update! Thank you Sue and Paul. What a fantastic birthday cake! We hope it tasted as good as it looks. xx
All our love and hugs. xx